Located approximately 20 km northeast of Brantôme, Saint-Jean-de-Côle is officially classified as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Walking into the village, it’s easy to see why  ̶̶  you suddenly feel as though you’re stepping back in time.

As with many medieval villages, a church an ad covered market sit at its heart. The Romanesque-Byzantine church, dating from the 12th century, has a distinctive round-shaped roof. Interestingly, that roof collapsed twice  ̶̶  in the 18th and 19th centuries  ̶̶  after which a flat, wooden ceiling was constructed to prevent further issues.

One of the most fascinating and easily overlooked features of the church are the respite tombs just outside.

In the Middle Ages, infant and child mortality was tragically common. Many children died before they could be baptised  ̶̶  a requirement, at the time, for entry into heaven. To help grieving parents, “respite tombs” were created.

Small cubicles were dug into the church’s foundations where the bodies of unbaptised infants were placed and covered with stone. Rainwater running off the church roof  ̶̶  believed to be blessed  ̶̶  would trickle down over these tombs, symbolically baptising the child. After a period of time, the child could be buried in the cemetery, and their soul was thought to have entered Paradise, offering a measure of peace to their bereaved families.

Also in the village is the 12th-century Château de la Marthonie, which is open to visitors in July and August. Just a short walk away is a charming medieval humpback bridge crossing the River Côle. Closed to traffic, it’s a lovely spot for a stroll. As we walked across, the peaceful beauty of the scene made it easy to imagine as the backdrop to a historical film.

The Dordogne is full of pretty little villages like this. If you would like to read more, some of them feature in my book, My Dordogne Life, available on Amazon.